A day in Obi: walking the castle town of Nichinan

Obi is one of the most charming small towns in Kyushu. For almost three centuries it was the seat of the Ito clan, and its streets of stone walls, gates and gardens still follow the plan of the old castle town. It is an easy day trip from Miyazaki city, and a short hop from the cruise port of Aburatsu.

Getting there

Trains on the JR Nichinan Line take about an hour from Miyazaki Station to Obi Station, and pass Aoshima on the way. Trains are infrequent, so check the timetable for your return. From the station, it is about 15 minutes on foot to the old town. By car, it is about an hour from Miyazaki city, and there are car parks near the castle.

Morning: the castle

Start at the tourist information office and buy the walking and eating map, which gives entry to several sights and coupons for snacks at shops in town. Then walk up through the Otemon gate of Obi Castle, rebuilt in 1978 using traditional methods and local cedar. Inside the walls, you will find:

• The Obi Castle Museum: armour, swords and treasures of the Ito clan.
• Matsuo-no-maru: a reconstructed lord’s residence, with tatami rooms, a tea room and a garden.
• The old castle grounds: moss-covered stone walls and tall cedars, peaceful and green.

Lunch: Obi-ten and more

Use your coupons for Obi-ten, a slightly sweet fried fish cake made with tofu and brown sugar, and for atsuyaki tamago, a thick baked egg custard. Several shops serve set lunches with local fish and chicken.

Afternoon: the samurai streets

• Yoshokan: the elegant residence of the Ito family after the castle was abandoned, with a garden that borrows the hills behind it.
• Komura Memorial Hall: the story of Komura Jutaro, the diplomat born in Obi who negotiated the Treaty of Portsmouth, which ended the Russo-Japanese War in 1905.
• The Yokobaba and Honmachi streets: walk the lanes of stone walls and hedges, and look for koi in the canals along the main street.
• Kimono hire: several shops rent kimono for a few hours, a lovely way to see the old town.

Combine Obi with

• Udo Jingu, the shrine in a sea cave, about 30 minutes by car.
• The fishing port of Aburatsu and its old stone warehouses, 15 minutes away.
• Cape Toi, about an hour south, for the wild horses.

See our guide to driving the Nichinan coast for a full itinerary.

Tips

• Many shops and restaurants close by about 5 pm, and some close on one weekday. Arrive in the morning.
• Wear comfortable shoes for the stone steps at the castle.
• On a cruise call, check that your tour guarantees your return to the ship at Aburatsu.