The Takachiho night kagura: seeing the gods dance

Kagura is sacred dance and music performed for the gods of Shinto, and Takachiho has one of the oldest and best-known traditions in Japan. Every evening at Takachiho Shrine, local performers act out the town’s great myth, and it is one of the most memorable things you can do in Miyazaki.

The myth behind the dance

According to Japan’s ancient chronicles, the sun goddess Amaterasu was so upset by the wild behaviour of her brother, the storm god Susanoo, that she hid in a cave and shut it with a boulder. The world fell into darkness. The other gods gathered outside and tried everything to lure her out. In the end, the goddess Ame-no-Uzume danced so wildly that the gods roared with laughter. Curious, Amaterasu peeked out, and the strong god Tajikarao pulled the rock aside, bringing light back to the world. That dance is said to be the first kagura.

Takachiho claims the cave itself, which can be seen from the grounds of Amano Iwato Shrine, about 15 minutes’ drive from the town centre.

The nightly show at Takachiho Shrine

The full Takachiho kagura has 33 dances. Every night of the year, four of them are performed at Takachiho Shrine in a show of about an hour, usually starting at 8 pm. They tell the story of the cave: Tajikarao searching for the hidden goddess, Uzume’s dance, the moving of the rock, and finally a playful dance about the creator gods Izanagi and Izanami, which always gets the audience laughing.

• Tickets: pay a small fee at the door. You do not usually need to book, but arrive early in busy seasons for a good seat.
• Seating: on the floor of the kagura hall, on tatami or cushions. There are some chairs at the back.
• Language: there is a short introduction in Japanese, but the dances are easy to follow. Read the myth beforehand.

The all-night village kagura

From late November to February, villages around Takachiho hold the full kagura, all 33 dances, through the night in a local home or community hall, as an offering for the harvest. The dancers perform from evening until the next morning, and the hosts share food and sake with guests. These are local religious events, not tourist shows, but visitors are often welcome if they are respectful. Ask at the Takachiho tourist association for dates and the etiquette, and bring a small gift such as a bottle of sake or an envelope of money for the hosts.

Tips

• Stay the night in Takachiho. The last buses leave long before the show ends.
• Do not use flash, and stay seated during the dances.
• Combine the kagura with a visit to Takachiho Gorge. Our guide to visiting the gorge covers the rest of the town.
• In the shrine grounds, look for the pair of linked cedar trees, which are said to bring good luck to couples who walk around them hand in hand.